Fujifilm X-T1 Review
Welcome to what will be, perhaps, my most comprehensive review yet. This is the review of my daily driver and my favourite camera, the Fujifilm X-T1. Unlike the mostly plastic DSLRs from Canon and Nikon over the past decade, this Fujifilm camera oozes quality, with a precision metal construction, weather-sealing and a certain denseness and tightness which conveys a sense of compactness and strength. Weighing in at only 440g, the Fujifilm X-T1 is only slightly over half the weight of many modern DSLRs, meaning that with this amazing camera, you'll be walking further, climbing higher and working harder than you ever have with a clunky, heavy camera.
Very Important Note - This review was written for the Fuji X-T1 prior to Version 4.00 firmware update. Fuji significantly revamped many things including the AF system in this update. I am currently in the process of updating this review to reflect the changes implemented. I will replace this note when the updates have been made. Thanks, Paul.
The Fuji X-T1 is a mirrorless camera, not a DSLR. Read here to learn about the differences.
This review is of a camera which belongs to an entire system, the Fujiflm X System. For an overview of the Fujifilm X system, see my Fujifilm X System Guide. For other reviews of Fujifilm X System gear, click here to see my complete list of Fujifilm gear reviews, here you'll find reviews of lenses and other gizmos to pair with your excellent X-T1.
Very Important Note - This review was written for the Fuji X-T1 prior to Version 4.00 firmware update. Fuji significantly revamped many things including the AF system in this update. I am currently in the process of updating this review to reflect the changes implemented. I will replace this note when the updates have been made. Thanks, Paul.
The Fuji X-T1 is a mirrorless camera, not a DSLR. Read here to learn about the differences.
This review is of a camera which belongs to an entire system, the Fujiflm X System. For an overview of the Fujifilm X system, see my Fujifilm X System Guide. For other reviews of Fujifilm X System gear, click here to see my complete list of Fujifilm gear reviews, here you'll find reviews of lenses and other gizmos to pair with your excellent X-T1.
The Fujifilm X-T1 is Fuji's latest and greatest camera, with all modern technology and the best of what Fuji has to offer at this point in time. Compared with the ancient X-Pro1 and X-E1 cameras, this X-T1 is faster to operate, faster to shoot, faster to autofocus and offers more manual controls and settings, allowing you to get more shots and better shots than you ever did with older cameras.
Unlike older DSLR systems which still have ancient ties to film SLRs from last century, Fujifilm's X system is one of the first systems to be designed from the ground up to be used with digital. The lenses, sensors, processors and firmware all work together to enhance your image quality by correcting optical imperfections in camera (such as distortion) and Fuji's Lens Modulation Optimizer also works to correct diffraction at smaller apertures. What you get out are high quality, corrected JPEG files which are free from the problems which were faced by 35mm film shooters of yesteryear and continue to be faced by DSLR cameras today which have simply just replaced the film with a digital sensor.
Unlike older DSLR systems which still have ancient ties to film SLRs from last century, Fujifilm's X system is one of the first systems to be designed from the ground up to be used with digital. The lenses, sensors, processors and firmware all work together to enhance your image quality by correcting optical imperfections in camera (such as distortion) and Fuji's Lens Modulation Optimizer also works to correct diffraction at smaller apertures. What you get out are high quality, corrected JPEG files which are free from the problems which were faced by 35mm film shooters of yesteryear and continue to be faced by DSLR cameras today which have simply just replaced the film with a digital sensor.
Physical Tour
The physical construction of the Fuji X-T1 is excellent. All of Fuji's cameras thus far have been well constructed, but the X-T1 takes it a step further and offers weather resistance, so it's fine to shoot in light rain. It's the heaviest Fuji X camera by a slight margin, coming in at a hair over the X-Pro1. Unlike the X-Pro1 which features a more brushed finish, the X-T1 features a textured matte finish for the metal parts, accompanied with rubber over the grip. Since the X-T1 is so light and small, at only around 450g, or around 600g with a 35mm f/1.4 lens, its grip is more than adequate, the textured feel is nice and there's a thumb rest on the back so the camera balances nicely in your hand. Ergonomics become more of an issue with larger cameras and more weight.
If you've only ever used plastic cameras such as the cheaper DSLRs, you'll be impressed with the Fuji X-T1's construction. It's a real throwback to the days where cameras were actually mechanical masterpieces. If you've shot with manual cameras such as the Nikon FE in the past, you'll feel right at home on the Fuji X-T1. Unlike the Nikon Df which feels like a plastic knock-off of past cameras such as the Nikon FE, the X-T1 actually feels dense, well built and all of its buttons have a great tactile feel. The X-T1 really combines the best of both worlds - on the one hand, its design is something we haven't seen in decades, but its technological improvements, especially the way the entire system was designed with digital in mind almost seems like something from the future - in camera correction of distortion and even diffraction - that's excellent.
If you've only ever used plastic cameras such as the cheaper DSLRs, you'll be impressed with the Fuji X-T1's construction. It's a real throwback to the days where cameras were actually mechanical masterpieces. If you've shot with manual cameras such as the Nikon FE in the past, you'll feel right at home on the Fuji X-T1. Unlike the Nikon Df which feels like a plastic knock-off of past cameras such as the Nikon FE, the X-T1 actually feels dense, well built and all of its buttons have a great tactile feel. The X-T1 really combines the best of both worlds - on the one hand, its design is something we haven't seen in decades, but its technological improvements, especially the way the entire system was designed with digital in mind almost seems like something from the future - in camera correction of distortion and even diffraction - that's excellent.
From the front of the camera, we see a programmable function button where our right index finger rests on the grip along with the lens mount, an autofocus selector switch and a PC sync port. The programmable function button comes default as a macro-mode ON/OFF switch, but you can re-program it to a variety of different settings. There is also a circular dial right above the grip.
The autofocus selector allows you to select whether you want single shot autofocus (AF-S), continuous autofocus (AF-C) or manual focus. Unlike Canon and Nikon, both of whom now mostly allow instant manual focus override, Fuji still requires you to move the switch to M mode, though newer firmwares allow manual focus override. Because Fuji's manual focus is by-wire, meaning that the focus ring is only an encoder which tells the internal motor to move it in the direction you choose, it's slow, clunky and whilst accurate, can be frustrating to use.
The circular dial on the front here allows you to navigate the menus and go Forward/Back when you're viewing the images. For lenses without an aperture ring, you can select either the front or rear dial to use to select the aperture. There is also a VIEW MODE button on the right side of the OVF prism where you can change between seeing your image on the LCD or the EVF, along with some other options.
Unlike with DSLRs, the sensor is not covered when mounting and unmounting lenses, so be sure to keep it faced away from any sources of dust or dirt. That said, because it's open and less hidden away deep inside the camera, it is much easier to clean. I generally just use a blower to clean off any dust.
The autofocus selector allows you to select whether you want single shot autofocus (AF-S), continuous autofocus (AF-C) or manual focus. Unlike Canon and Nikon, both of whom now mostly allow instant manual focus override, Fuji still requires you to move the switch to M mode, though newer firmwares allow manual focus override. Because Fuji's manual focus is by-wire, meaning that the focus ring is only an encoder which tells the internal motor to move it in the direction you choose, it's slow, clunky and whilst accurate, can be frustrating to use.
The circular dial on the front here allows you to navigate the menus and go Forward/Back when you're viewing the images. For lenses without an aperture ring, you can select either the front or rear dial to use to select the aperture. There is also a VIEW MODE button on the right side of the OVF prism where you can change between seeing your image on the LCD or the EVF, along with some other options.
Unlike with DSLRs, the sensor is not covered when mounting and unmounting lenses, so be sure to keep it faced away from any sources of dust or dirt. That said, because it's open and less hidden away deep inside the camera, it is much easier to clean. I generally just use a blower to clean off any dust.
The top of the X-T1 actually features real metal dials and knobs, unlike even the best DSLRs such as the Nikon D4s, which only feature plastic buttons. These dials allow you to quickly view and set your ISO, shutter speed and exposure compensation without having to rely on a tiny top LCD (as with most DSLRs) and without having to remember to push different buttons and turn different dials. These dials are clear, easy to see, intuitive to use and most importantly, they feel great in hand, solid and clicky without feeling junky and gimmicky, as with the Nikon Df's dials.
I use my X-T1 in Auto ISO mode, you select the minimum shutter speed in the menus. This way, it automatically bumps up my ISO to get the appropriate exposure for my selected aperture and shutter speed. Underneath the ISO dial, on the left, is the drive dial, which is adjusted with your left index finger from the front - it controls whether you want single shot, continuous shot, bracketing...etc. I usually use single shot for most things.
The shutter speed dial is self-explanatory, leave it on A for automatic, if you select your aperture manually, then you're in aperture priority - easy, no need for P, A, S, M modes, just select what you want and leave what you don't want to select on A. Underneath the shutter speed dial is the metering dial, you can select spot, centre-weighted or matrix metering modes, as with all other cameras. I usually leave it in matrix metering.
There's another Fn (function) button set to activate the WiFi, you can re-program that to what you want, as well as a 'record' button for video and the On/Off power switch and shutter. That's all self-explanatory. The shutter button feels nice and has good travel and tactile feedback. It's the clicky type, not the soft type you'd find on something like a Nikon D800/810.
I use my X-T1 in Auto ISO mode, you select the minimum shutter speed in the menus. This way, it automatically bumps up my ISO to get the appropriate exposure for my selected aperture and shutter speed. Underneath the ISO dial, on the left, is the drive dial, which is adjusted with your left index finger from the front - it controls whether you want single shot, continuous shot, bracketing...etc. I usually use single shot for most things.
The shutter speed dial is self-explanatory, leave it on A for automatic, if you select your aperture manually, then you're in aperture priority - easy, no need for P, A, S, M modes, just select what you want and leave what you don't want to select on A. Underneath the shutter speed dial is the metering dial, you can select spot, centre-weighted or matrix metering modes, as with all other cameras. I usually leave it in matrix metering.
There's another Fn (function) button set to activate the WiFi, you can re-program that to what you want, as well as a 'record' button for video and the On/Off power switch and shutter. That's all self-explanatory. The shutter button feels nice and has good travel and tactile feedback. It's the clicky type, not the soft type you'd find on something like a Nikon D800/810.
The Fuji X-T1's back is relatively uncluttered and self-explanatory compared to most DSLR cameras and even other mirrorless options. On the left, you have the Playback and Delete Buttons. Use these to review and cull your pictures. On the right, at the top, you have the AE-L (auto-exposure lock) and AF-L (autofocus lock) buttons.
To use the AE-L button, point your camera (i.e. the focus point) at what you want to meter for (perhaps a person's clothing for face, for example), hold down the AE-L button and then proceed to point the focus point at where you want to focus on (e.g. a person's eye) and then press the shutter half-way to focus and the entire way to take the shot. Don't let go of the AF-L button! By using the AE-L button, you've locked exposure on a different place to where you've locked focus. This can be useful where your subject might be wearing really light or dark cloths which might be clipped if you meter normally.
Use the AF-L button to activate the autofocus system. This is the same thing as pushing the shutter half way. It even works in manual focus mode, so you can, for example, use the AF-L button to rack focus and then fine-tune manually.
The rear dial allows you to zoom when playing back your images. The Focus Assist button zooms into the area of focus so you can check to see if you are in focus. The Q button brings up a Quick menu, where you can adjust shooting options such as white balance or film simulation. The D-Pad is used to navigate menus and scroll through your images during review and the MENU/OK button either brings up the menu or acts as an OK button. The DISP/BACK button either goes back (if you're in a menu) or brings up display settings where you can adjust what you want to see on the screen and the EVF.
The LCD screen is tilt-able all the way from around 90 degrees facing up to around 30 degrees facing down, as showing in the pictures below, this allows you to have the camera higher or lower than eye level.
To use the AE-L button, point your camera (i.e. the focus point) at what you want to meter for (perhaps a person's clothing for face, for example), hold down the AE-L button and then proceed to point the focus point at where you want to focus on (e.g. a person's eye) and then press the shutter half-way to focus and the entire way to take the shot. Don't let go of the AF-L button! By using the AE-L button, you've locked exposure on a different place to where you've locked focus. This can be useful where your subject might be wearing really light or dark cloths which might be clipped if you meter normally.
Use the AF-L button to activate the autofocus system. This is the same thing as pushing the shutter half way. It even works in manual focus mode, so you can, for example, use the AF-L button to rack focus and then fine-tune manually.
The rear dial allows you to zoom when playing back your images. The Focus Assist button zooms into the area of focus so you can check to see if you are in focus. The Q button brings up a Quick menu, where you can adjust shooting options such as white balance or film simulation. The D-Pad is used to navigate menus and scroll through your images during review and the MENU/OK button either brings up the menu or acts as an OK button. The DISP/BACK button either goes back (if you're in a menu) or brings up display settings where you can adjust what you want to see on the screen and the EVF.
The LCD screen is tilt-able all the way from around 90 degrees facing up to around 30 degrees facing down, as showing in the pictures below, this allows you to have the camera higher or lower than eye level.
The bottom of the camera contains the door to access the battery compartment. The left hand side has several ports - USB, HDMI and MIC. The right hand side has a single SD card slot, which supports up to SDXC-UHSII standard cards.
Handling and Performance
The Fujifilm X-T1 performs very well. Compared to other mirrorless options, it's tight, fast and shoots like a dream. The Fuji system backs up this excellent camera with great lenses that a camera like this deserves. Unlike Sony with its lack of genuinely fast primes and professional grade zooms, the Fuji X system delivers in spades.
The camera is great to use and ergonomically excellent. This is great news, nobody cares if a camera has great image quality if it's hard to shoot with - if you're not out using it to shoot pictures, then the fact that it can produce great images is pretty irrelevant. The Fuji X-T1 is great because it handles very well. The dials on top make it very easy to quickly set your shutter speed and the aperture ring on the lenses make it extremely easy to set the aperture, all without having to fiddle around with command dials and looking at the top LCD to see your exposure settings. Compared to the older X-Pro1, the X-T1 is much easier to set and much faster to use because of its more extensive dials and manual controls. With DSLRs and cameras like the Sony A7, you have to look at the top LCD or rear LCD, flip the command dials, scrolling through all the shutter speeds or apertures until you find the one you're after. Here, you just flick the dial to the setting you need in one go.
Perhaps the most important aspect holding many people back from a mirrorless camera is the replacement of the optical viewfinder (OVF) with an electronic viewfinder (EVF). Read more. The X-T1's EVF is excellent, by far the best EVF I have ever used, it's bright, sharp, fast and displays all the relevant information in an easy-to-see and very concise way. The two most important aspects of EVF performance are lag - i.e. whether the EVF lags several fractions of a second behind what's happening in real time, and resolution/sharpness, the X-T1 has both in spades, delivering a crisp real-time image. Even better than on DSLRs, with the X-T1's EVF, you can see your exposure before ever clicking the shutter, so you don't have to take a test shot before adjusting your exposure compensation! Plus, when it's dark or when you're using ND filters, the EVF allows you to see and compose your shot. The tilting LCD also helps as it allows you to get down low and up high without having to actually bend down or stand on a chair - this is one of the most useful features I've used on the X-T1.
Autofocus performance on the X-T1 is average out of the box, but there are several tweaks you can apply to get the autofocus performance to a pretty acceptable standard. Unlike on DSLRs, the AF isn't as snappy and responsive. However, because the autofocus sensors of the X-T1 are on the sensor rather than on a separate module, it does not suffer from missing focus the way a DSLR can. Focus is not as fast as a DSLR, but in terms of accuracy, when the focus is found and locked, the pictures always turn out tack sharp because of how well the focus has locked and how accurate the on sensor phase-detect autofocus system is. The key point stopping many from achieving sharp images, provided they have decent technique and equipment is missed focus. This helps at apertures such as f/1.2 where a simple misadjustment can throw your focus off.
For best autofocus performance, turn on High Performance Mode in the Power Management section of the Menu, turn on PRE-AF and also make the size of your autofocus point larger by going to the screen where you select your AF point and rotating the front dial. By default, any of the 4 D-Pad buttons takes you to the AF point selection screen when you're in shooting mode.
Unlike a DSLR, the X-T1 will not track subjects automatically. It does not have an equivalent of Nikon's 3D tracking mode. It simply continuously focuses on whichever AF point you've selected, so to track in continuous focus mode, you have to keep the focus point on your subject by yourself (i.e. move the camera to follow the subject around).
The camera is great to use and ergonomically excellent. This is great news, nobody cares if a camera has great image quality if it's hard to shoot with - if you're not out using it to shoot pictures, then the fact that it can produce great images is pretty irrelevant. The Fuji X-T1 is great because it handles very well. The dials on top make it very easy to quickly set your shutter speed and the aperture ring on the lenses make it extremely easy to set the aperture, all without having to fiddle around with command dials and looking at the top LCD to see your exposure settings. Compared to the older X-Pro1, the X-T1 is much easier to set and much faster to use because of its more extensive dials and manual controls. With DSLRs and cameras like the Sony A7, you have to look at the top LCD or rear LCD, flip the command dials, scrolling through all the shutter speeds or apertures until you find the one you're after. Here, you just flick the dial to the setting you need in one go.
Perhaps the most important aspect holding many people back from a mirrorless camera is the replacement of the optical viewfinder (OVF) with an electronic viewfinder (EVF). Read more. The X-T1's EVF is excellent, by far the best EVF I have ever used, it's bright, sharp, fast and displays all the relevant information in an easy-to-see and very concise way. The two most important aspects of EVF performance are lag - i.e. whether the EVF lags several fractions of a second behind what's happening in real time, and resolution/sharpness, the X-T1 has both in spades, delivering a crisp real-time image. Even better than on DSLRs, with the X-T1's EVF, you can see your exposure before ever clicking the shutter, so you don't have to take a test shot before adjusting your exposure compensation! Plus, when it's dark or when you're using ND filters, the EVF allows you to see and compose your shot. The tilting LCD also helps as it allows you to get down low and up high without having to actually bend down or stand on a chair - this is one of the most useful features I've used on the X-T1.
Autofocus performance on the X-T1 is average out of the box, but there are several tweaks you can apply to get the autofocus performance to a pretty acceptable standard. Unlike on DSLRs, the AF isn't as snappy and responsive. However, because the autofocus sensors of the X-T1 are on the sensor rather than on a separate module, it does not suffer from missing focus the way a DSLR can. Focus is not as fast as a DSLR, but in terms of accuracy, when the focus is found and locked, the pictures always turn out tack sharp because of how well the focus has locked and how accurate the on sensor phase-detect autofocus system is. The key point stopping many from achieving sharp images, provided they have decent technique and equipment is missed focus. This helps at apertures such as f/1.2 where a simple misadjustment can throw your focus off.
For best autofocus performance, turn on High Performance Mode in the Power Management section of the Menu, turn on PRE-AF and also make the size of your autofocus point larger by going to the screen where you select your AF point and rotating the front dial. By default, any of the 4 D-Pad buttons takes you to the AF point selection screen when you're in shooting mode.
Unlike a DSLR, the X-T1 will not track subjects automatically. It does not have an equivalent of Nikon's 3D tracking mode. It simply continuously focuses on whichever AF point you've selected, so to track in continuous focus mode, you have to keep the focus point on your subject by yourself (i.e. move the camera to follow the subject around).
Image Quality
Image quality is determined by three factors, technique, lenses and cameras (perhaps in descending order of importance). To have any chance of getting sharp images, you need to be well-stabilised, shooting at a sufficiently high shutter speed and also be shooting a subject with decent contrast and lighting. Then you need to be shooting with a quality lens. Thankfully, most of Fuji's lenses are amazing and all of them are good. So you have a wide selection of lenses to choose from which will give you great results.
The X-T1 itself uses a 16MP X-Trans II sensor, which is different from a more traditional Bayer sensor arrangement. Without getting too overly technical, a Bayer sensor uses an array of 2x2 grids, with two green elements, one red and one blue. This is to mimic the fact that the human eye is more sensitive to green. Thus, each of these 2x2 grids will measure the intensity of each of the RGB wavelengths. The X-T1 (and other Fuji X cameras apart from the X-A1) uses Fuji's X-Trans sensor, which is a 6x6 grid, containing 20 green elements, 8 red elements and 8 blue elements. Because this arrangement is more randomised, it is said to reduce the prevalence of moire patterns (a creation of a 3rd pattern from two superimposed patterns), thus not requiring an anti-aliasing (blurring) filter, allowing it to extract more detail from the same resolution sensor.
In other words, the Fuji XT-1's 16MP X-Trans II sensor is expected to deliver more detail than another 16MP sensor, for example, the one found in the Nikon D7000 because of its superior (newer) technology. This is great in theory, but it also works in practice, with the X-T1 being able to extract copious amounts of detail from its files.
Fuji's system is also very well designed, with the camera being able to correct lens imperfections such as distortion and even diffraction at smaller apertures all in camera. This shows how tightly integrated the Fuji X system is and how a digital system should be - we are no longer tied to 35mm film the way that many DSLR systems are.
The X-T1 itself uses a 16MP X-Trans II sensor, which is different from a more traditional Bayer sensor arrangement. Without getting too overly technical, a Bayer sensor uses an array of 2x2 grids, with two green elements, one red and one blue. This is to mimic the fact that the human eye is more sensitive to green. Thus, each of these 2x2 grids will measure the intensity of each of the RGB wavelengths. The X-T1 (and other Fuji X cameras apart from the X-A1) uses Fuji's X-Trans sensor, which is a 6x6 grid, containing 20 green elements, 8 red elements and 8 blue elements. Because this arrangement is more randomised, it is said to reduce the prevalence of moire patterns (a creation of a 3rd pattern from two superimposed patterns), thus not requiring an anti-aliasing (blurring) filter, allowing it to extract more detail from the same resolution sensor.
In other words, the Fuji XT-1's 16MP X-Trans II sensor is expected to deliver more detail than another 16MP sensor, for example, the one found in the Nikon D7000 because of its superior (newer) technology. This is great in theory, but it also works in practice, with the X-T1 being able to extract copious amounts of detail from its files.
Fuji's system is also very well designed, with the camera being able to correct lens imperfections such as distortion and even diffraction at smaller apertures all in camera. This shows how tightly integrated the Fuji X system is and how a digital system should be - we are no longer tied to 35mm film the way that many DSLR systems are.
Samples
High ISO Test
To test high ISO performance, we shot the following frame at full stop increases of ISO from ISO200 all the way to ISO6400. Extended ISO, as we can already guess, will be rubbish and I don't know anyone who would be happy using ISO12800 and ISO25600, so I'll ignore them in this test. ISO6400 is already very high. Back on film, things started getting bad when we were at ISO1600, so we already have an extra two stops of leeway with digital.
The following frames were all shot with the camera on a table in the same place, because I was too lazy to find and set up my tripod. I already know that high ISO performance is excellent through actually shooting, but I can't prove that, so I'll need to do some sort of comparable test here.
The following frames were all shot with the camera on a table in the same place, because I was too lazy to find and set up my tripod. I already know that high ISO performance is excellent through actually shooting, but I can't prove that, so I'll need to do some sort of comparable test here.
High ISO performance is extraordinary. Let's look at it at higher and higher ISOs. As previously mentioned, we're starting at ISO200 and then increasing all the way to ISO6400.
I can barely spot the difference between ISO200 and ISO6400. If you look at the areas of detail, you can see that there is some detail loss as we go up to ISO6400, but without trying to specifically spot it, the pictures look the same to me. For all the pixel-peepers, I'll include two crops on the areas of detail where I can see visible differences between ISO200 and ISO6400.
Below, we can see the noise added to the shadow areas by moving from ISO200 to ISO6400. Whilst there has been some in-camera noise reduction applied, we can see that there is still a marked difference between ISO200 and ISO6400 when pixel-peeping (which is not how we view images normally). We can also see that there is loss of detail in the textures, at ISO6400, we can no longer make out the finer grain of the texture of the X100's grip, as we can at ISO200.
Below, we can see the noise added to the shadow areas by moving from ISO200 to ISO6400. Whilst there has been some in-camera noise reduction applied, we can see that there is still a marked difference between ISO200 and ISO6400 when pixel-peeping (which is not how we view images normally). We can also see that there is loss of detail in the textures, at ISO6400, we can no longer make out the finer grain of the texture of the X100's grip, as we can at ISO200.
The following shots look at the point of focus, we can see we lose a little bit of colour detail moving from ISO200 to ISO6400, but at ISO6400, the picture is very much usable and acceptable, if not excellent.
The X-T1's X-Trans II sensor is great at high ISOs and is one of the best things about Fuji's sensor. The fact that it's only 16MP also helps. Its high ISO performance is as good as my Nikon D600's which is a full-frame camera. It completely blows consumer crop-frame DSLRs like the D7100 out of the water with its high ISO performance.
Recommended Lenses
Check out Fujifilm X System Guide and Fujifilm Reviews.
The Fujifilm X-T1 is slightly larger than the Fujifilm X-E1 and X-E2 and around the same weight as the X-Pro1. However, due to its larger grip and DSLR styling, it lends itself to larger lenses much better than the X-Pro1, X-E1 and X-E2 cameras. The X-Pro1, X-E1 and X-E2 don't really have grips, making it difficult to hold the camera with larger lenses attached as the camera has a tendency to tilt forwards. The X-T1 has a more sizable grip which allows you to stay more balanced with a heavier lens.
Unlike the X-E1 and X-E2, where I only really recommend the primes, the larger zooms such as the 16-55mm f/2.8 and 50-140mm f/2.8 are both great on the X-T1, even though they're big and heavy. Ergonomically, the X-T1 is Fuji's best camera. Of course, the primes are even better on the X-T1, making the entire package light and practically weightless as you're carrying it around for an entire day. My X-T1 with my 27mm f/2.8 lens weighs in at less than 550g. This is less than half of what I used to carry when I carried a Nikon D600 with a 50mm f/1.4G as my daily walkaround kit.
For a general starting lens, the X-T1 comes in a kit with the great 18-55mm f/2.8-4 OIS which is a very good lens to begin with. An alternative to this lens is the Fujinon 35mm f/1.4. For a more extensive starting kit, I would get the 18-55mm f/2.8-4 OIS, 55-200mm f/3.5-4.8 OIS and also the 35mm f/1.4 for low light situations to round out the kit nicely.
The Fujifilm X-T1 is slightly larger than the Fujifilm X-E1 and X-E2 and around the same weight as the X-Pro1. However, due to its larger grip and DSLR styling, it lends itself to larger lenses much better than the X-Pro1, X-E1 and X-E2 cameras. The X-Pro1, X-E1 and X-E2 don't really have grips, making it difficult to hold the camera with larger lenses attached as the camera has a tendency to tilt forwards. The X-T1 has a more sizable grip which allows you to stay more balanced with a heavier lens.
Unlike the X-E1 and X-E2, where I only really recommend the primes, the larger zooms such as the 16-55mm f/2.8 and 50-140mm f/2.8 are both great on the X-T1, even though they're big and heavy. Ergonomically, the X-T1 is Fuji's best camera. Of course, the primes are even better on the X-T1, making the entire package light and practically weightless as you're carrying it around for an entire day. My X-T1 with my 27mm f/2.8 lens weighs in at less than 550g. This is less than half of what I used to carry when I carried a Nikon D600 with a 50mm f/1.4G as my daily walkaround kit.
For a general starting lens, the X-T1 comes in a kit with the great 18-55mm f/2.8-4 OIS which is a very good lens to begin with. An alternative to this lens is the Fujinon 35mm f/1.4. For a more extensive starting kit, I would get the 18-55mm f/2.8-4 OIS, 55-200mm f/3.5-4.8 OIS and also the 35mm f/1.4 for low light situations to round out the kit nicely.
What I Personally Use
For a lightweight walking around kit, I carry my X-T1 with a 27mm f/2.8 lens. This is what I would use for a casual stroll around the city streets or to carry with me around the house to take photos of random things. This is what I would take with me every time I go somewhere, it fits nicely into my car's glovebox.
If I'm slightly more serious or if I need to work with lower light, I will take my Zeiss 32mm f/1.8 instead of my Fujinon 27mm f/2.8 lens. This gives me a little over a stop of extra light and its image quality is outstanding. It adds around 120g to my kit by taking the Zeiss 32mm instead.
For some fun, especially if I'm doing streetscapes or some more creative stuff, I'll take my 10-24mm f/4 OIS on my X-T1 and carry my 27mm f/2.8 either in my pocket or in my bag. The only thing with carrying it in my pocket and not taking a bag is if I change lenses, I can't carry the 10-24mm f/4 OIS in my pocket.
If I'm shooting an indoor event, I will take the X-T1 with the 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 OIS and a Yongnuo YN-560 IV flash. Since I'm always shooting at around f/5.6 with flash and at events for slightly more depth of field, the 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 OIS is just more convenient. I won't take primes and second bodies...etc. unless it was a serious event.
For daytime assignments where I have no idea what I'll see (e.g. a roadtrip to some nice place), I'll take my X-T1 with the 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 OIS and my X-E2 with the 10-24mm f/4 OIS, covering all the way from 10mm to 135mm (equivalent to 15mm to 200mm on full frame - pretty impressive)! I might slot the 27mm f/2.8 in my pocket. I could chuck the entire kit into the boot of my car, but that's inelegant and we don't shoot Fujifilm to be inelegant.
For natural light portrait assignments, I will take my X-T1 with the 56mm f/1.2 as my main lens, then I'll also carry my 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 OIS in my bag in case I need a wide shot or if I need a telephoto shot for background compression. I'll carry a 27mm f/2.8 in my pocket in case the 56mm f/1.2 might be a little long. I won't take the Zeiss 32mm f/1.8 unless I know I'll need it. The 27mm is great.
If I'm slightly more serious or if I need to work with lower light, I will take my Zeiss 32mm f/1.8 instead of my Fujinon 27mm f/2.8 lens. This gives me a little over a stop of extra light and its image quality is outstanding. It adds around 120g to my kit by taking the Zeiss 32mm instead.
For some fun, especially if I'm doing streetscapes or some more creative stuff, I'll take my 10-24mm f/4 OIS on my X-T1 and carry my 27mm f/2.8 either in my pocket or in my bag. The only thing with carrying it in my pocket and not taking a bag is if I change lenses, I can't carry the 10-24mm f/4 OIS in my pocket.
If I'm shooting an indoor event, I will take the X-T1 with the 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 OIS and a Yongnuo YN-560 IV flash. Since I'm always shooting at around f/5.6 with flash and at events for slightly more depth of field, the 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 OIS is just more convenient. I won't take primes and second bodies...etc. unless it was a serious event.
For daytime assignments where I have no idea what I'll see (e.g. a roadtrip to some nice place), I'll take my X-T1 with the 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 OIS and my X-E2 with the 10-24mm f/4 OIS, covering all the way from 10mm to 135mm (equivalent to 15mm to 200mm on full frame - pretty impressive)! I might slot the 27mm f/2.8 in my pocket. I could chuck the entire kit into the boot of my car, but that's inelegant and we don't shoot Fujifilm to be inelegant.
For natural light portrait assignments, I will take my X-T1 with the 56mm f/1.2 as my main lens, then I'll also carry my 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 OIS in my bag in case I need a wide shot or if I need a telephoto shot for background compression. I'll carry a 27mm f/2.8 in my pocket in case the 56mm f/1.2 might be a little long. I won't take the Zeiss 32mm f/1.8 unless I know I'll need it. The 27mm is great.
Recommended Accessories
The most important accessory for the X-T1 are batteries. For DSLR shooters, I say one battery is okay if you're a casual shooter, and at least two if you're a serious shooter. For the Fujifilm system, since batteries are only rated for 300 shots per charge, I recommend two for casual shooters and at least four for serious shooters. I carry a freshly charged battery in my X-T1 every time I leave the house with an extra battery in my pocket if I'll be gone for more than half a day. I use generic ones, they're fine.
Fuji's included strap is okay - it's made out of faux leather that isn't particularly comfortable. The X-T1 is small. Just carry it without a strap like I do if you're expected to be shooting. If you're going for a walk and shooting comes second, get a nice Artist and Artisan strap. I love them, they're the best, but I'm vain. If you care more about function than form, unlike me, you can't go wrong with a Blackrapid strap. I would get a knockoff, you can get them for around $20 on eBay dropped shipped from the People's Republic of China.
There is a Fuji extended eyepiece which is useful, I don't use one because I prefer to use the LCD rather than the EVF unless it's too bright. Then I use the EVF, but the standard eyepiece is good enough for me in those situations. It might be more comfortable for you if you use the EVF.
The X-T1 also has a hand-grip (model MHG-XT) available. I wouldn't buy this. It's $116 at B&H which is a rip-off for what is really a piece of metal. The camera's grip is fine. You might be able to find a cheap knock-off. I'd buy one if it's less than $30. The X-T1 also has a vertical battery grip (VG-XT1), this is around $200 at B&H, which is reasonable if you shoot a lot of portrait oriented shots. It also allows you to have two batteries in the camera. If you want one of these, one of the biggest benefits of the Fuji system (the size) is nulled. I don't own one. I keep spare batteries in my pocket.
Fuji's included strap is okay - it's made out of faux leather that isn't particularly comfortable. The X-T1 is small. Just carry it without a strap like I do if you're expected to be shooting. If you're going for a walk and shooting comes second, get a nice Artist and Artisan strap. I love them, they're the best, but I'm vain. If you care more about function than form, unlike me, you can't go wrong with a Blackrapid strap. I would get a knockoff, you can get them for around $20 on eBay dropped shipped from the People's Republic of China.
There is a Fuji extended eyepiece which is useful, I don't use one because I prefer to use the LCD rather than the EVF unless it's too bright. Then I use the EVF, but the standard eyepiece is good enough for me in those situations. It might be more comfortable for you if you use the EVF.
The X-T1 also has a hand-grip (model MHG-XT) available. I wouldn't buy this. It's $116 at B&H which is a rip-off for what is really a piece of metal. The camera's grip is fine. You might be able to find a cheap knock-off. I'd buy one if it's less than $30. The X-T1 also has a vertical battery grip (VG-XT1), this is around $200 at B&H, which is reasonable if you shoot a lot of portrait oriented shots. It also allows you to have two batteries in the camera. If you want one of these, one of the biggest benefits of the Fuji system (the size) is nulled. I don't own one. I keep spare batteries in my pocket.
Improvements Required
The Fujifilm X-T1 has already come a long way due to Fuji's excellent firmware updates, but it has a few sore points which simply need improvement if it's going to compete with the best DSLRs.
Autofocus. The X-T1's autofocus is slow. It's fast enough, but still slow. It's fast compared to other mirrorless cameras, but still slow. Its continuous autofocus performance is mediocre at best, you need to keep the focus point on the subject as it can't lock onto a subject and track it around the frame, something which both mid-range Nikon and Canon DSLRs, which are cheaper than the X-T1, can do with ease.
Battery life. Battery life is atrocious. 350 rated shots per charge? That's hardly good enough. On top of that, that's the rated number, not the real number, in the real world, that figure is around 300 or even lower. Good thing is, 3rd party batteries are $10. At that price, pick up 10 of them and keep them all charged.
No dual SD card slots. This is a real issue. SD cards do get corrupt. If you're doing professional work, it's wise to have backups, especially if you're shooting something like a wedding. Considering the Nikon D7100 has dual SD card slots and is cheaper than the X-T1, Fuji can definitely up their game here.
Bad flash system. Yes, some people use the EF-42 for all their flash needs and it's fine, but the truth is, it's still a weaker flash than similar Canon and Nikon units such as the SB700. On top of that, I wouldn't buy a 1st party branded flash unless I was rich. I'd go for something like the Yongnuo YN-568EX for Nikon, which is more powerful than the SB700 for half the price, or the Yongnuo YN-600EX-RT for Canon, which is the same as the Canon 600EX-RT, but for around half the price (or even less). No such options exist for Fuji. I currently use manual flash with the Yongnuo YN-560 IV flashes. It's a pain, but it works. I might cave in and get an EF-42 if no news comes soon.
No Fully AUTO-ISO. On Nikon, I can set the minimum shutter speed on AUTO-ISO to AUTO, meaning that if the shutter speed required for the correct exposure falls below what the camera things is an acceptable shutter speed for the focal length, then the camera bumps up the ISO. For the Fuji X-T1, I can only assign a specific number as the minimum shutter speed. I use 1/80s.
Autofocus. The X-T1's autofocus is slow. It's fast enough, but still slow. It's fast compared to other mirrorless cameras, but still slow. Its continuous autofocus performance is mediocre at best, you need to keep the focus point on the subject as it can't lock onto a subject and track it around the frame, something which both mid-range Nikon and Canon DSLRs, which are cheaper than the X-T1, can do with ease.
Battery life. Battery life is atrocious. 350 rated shots per charge? That's hardly good enough. On top of that, that's the rated number, not the real number, in the real world, that figure is around 300 or even lower. Good thing is, 3rd party batteries are $10. At that price, pick up 10 of them and keep them all charged.
No dual SD card slots. This is a real issue. SD cards do get corrupt. If you're doing professional work, it's wise to have backups, especially if you're shooting something like a wedding. Considering the Nikon D7100 has dual SD card slots and is cheaper than the X-T1, Fuji can definitely up their game here.
Bad flash system. Yes, some people use the EF-42 for all their flash needs and it's fine, but the truth is, it's still a weaker flash than similar Canon and Nikon units such as the SB700. On top of that, I wouldn't buy a 1st party branded flash unless I was rich. I'd go for something like the Yongnuo YN-568EX for Nikon, which is more powerful than the SB700 for half the price, or the Yongnuo YN-600EX-RT for Canon, which is the same as the Canon 600EX-RT, but for around half the price (or even less). No such options exist for Fuji. I currently use manual flash with the Yongnuo YN-560 IV flashes. It's a pain, but it works. I might cave in and get an EF-42 if no news comes soon.
No Fully AUTO-ISO. On Nikon, I can set the minimum shutter speed on AUTO-ISO to AUTO, meaning that if the shutter speed required for the correct exposure falls below what the camera things is an acceptable shutter speed for the focal length, then the camera bumps up the ISO. For the Fuji X-T1, I can only assign a specific number as the minimum shutter speed. I use 1/80s.
Verdict
The Fujifilm X-T1 is elegant, eloquent, expressive and exquisite. It is, mechanically, the best digital camera I have ever used. Unlike the plastic small DSLRs from Nikon and Canon, the X-T1 is precision crafted with real metal and real dials. Unlike the hulking tough Nikon D4s and Canon 1DX, the X-T1 is small, light and sleek. Of course, unlike the ancient Leica M Typ 240, the Fuji X-T1 is inbuilt with the latest technology showing that its entire system was built ground-up to be shot with digital.
Much like fine etiquette has strange rules and is oftentimes impractical, the X-T1 behaves in the same way. It doesn't handle anywhere near as quickly as a DSLR and if you used a Nikon D4s, you would have focused, shot 10 frames and got out of the scene before the X-T1 even turned on. But I love the X-T1 in much the same way that a lady loves a gentleman. Using the X-T1 requires understanding, patience, thought and love. If you need speed, if you need the shot more than you appreciate magic and exquisiteness, then the X-T1 is not for you, similarly, if you're more concerned with getting to your destination quickly, you'd just open the car door yourself and get out rather than waiting for your gentleman to come around and open it for you. The X-T1 is not a practical camera.
The X-T1 is an amazing camera. Image quality is irrelevant because you'll get great image quality from any camera on the market. It's the same as what you'll get out of any decent camera around the price point. Handling wise, it can be a pain. It's not fast, it's not a hulking beast. But it's beautiful, and for that reason, you'll make better pictures because you'll want to shoot with it. Happiness leads to better pictures, better cameras don't.
When you find a camera this amazing, there's no point in even thinking twice about it or reviewing it. Just go out and buy one, shoot with it, enjoy.
Much like fine etiquette has strange rules and is oftentimes impractical, the X-T1 behaves in the same way. It doesn't handle anywhere near as quickly as a DSLR and if you used a Nikon D4s, you would have focused, shot 10 frames and got out of the scene before the X-T1 even turned on. But I love the X-T1 in much the same way that a lady loves a gentleman. Using the X-T1 requires understanding, patience, thought and love. If you need speed, if you need the shot more than you appreciate magic and exquisiteness, then the X-T1 is not for you, similarly, if you're more concerned with getting to your destination quickly, you'd just open the car door yourself and get out rather than waiting for your gentleman to come around and open it for you. The X-T1 is not a practical camera.
The X-T1 is an amazing camera. Image quality is irrelevant because you'll get great image quality from any camera on the market. It's the same as what you'll get out of any decent camera around the price point. Handling wise, it can be a pain. It's not fast, it's not a hulking beast. But it's beautiful, and for that reason, you'll make better pictures because you'll want to shoot with it. Happiness leads to better pictures, better cameras don't.
When you find a camera this amazing, there's no point in even thinking twice about it or reviewing it. Just go out and buy one, shoot with it, enjoy.
Versus Fuji X-E2
The Fuji X-E2 is a very similar camera to the X-T1. It has very similar features, but in a rangefinder style with the EVF on the left hand side rather than in the middle. The Fuji X-T1 has more of a DSLR feel. I would generally recommend that the X-E2 is the better camera for most people. It's smaller and lighter, performs almost as well as the X-T1 and it's quite a fair bit cheaper too, coming in at around a little over half the cost. Realistically speaking, you could get two X-E2s for a little more than one X-T1.
In the Fuji lineup, there is no doubt that the X-E2 is the king of value. Compared with the cheaper models such as the X-M1 or X-A1, the X-E2 adds tonnes of features, such as an actual EVF, phase detect autofocus and a nicer size for handling the larger Fujinon lenses. The X-T1 isn't as good on the value metric, but it adds several features which might be useful for more seasoned shooters. It's weather resistant, feels sturdier and has small, nice features that improve the shooting experience.
If you have the money, I would recommend splurging for the X-T1, its better performance and useful features are worth the extra cost, however, if you're on a budget or if weight and size is an important concern, then I would suggest the X-E2 as a very comparable alternative instead.
In the Fuji lineup, there is no doubt that the X-E2 is the king of value. Compared with the cheaper models such as the X-M1 or X-A1, the X-E2 adds tonnes of features, such as an actual EVF, phase detect autofocus and a nicer size for handling the larger Fujinon lenses. The X-T1 isn't as good on the value metric, but it adds several features which might be useful for more seasoned shooters. It's weather resistant, feels sturdier and has small, nice features that improve the shooting experience.
If you have the money, I would recommend splurging for the X-T1, its better performance and useful features are worth the extra cost, however, if you're on a budget or if weight and size is an important concern, then I would suggest the X-E2 as a very comparable alternative instead.
Plug
Thank you for taking the time to read my blog. Whilst I aim to verify all of the information I've presented and I always run my articles through a spelling and grammar check before posting them, sometimes there are mistakes. If you've found a mistake, I'd appreciate it wholeheartedly if you could contact me (just click on the link, it's also in the footer). Due to the nature of photography and personal preferences - much of what I say is my own opinion - other reviewers, and perhaps even yourself, may disagree.
If you've enjoyed what I've written, I'm glad - this blog doesn't cost much to run, so I don't need affiliate links or donations to keep it alive. Instead, I urge you to share your own opinions too. Starting a blog is a great idea, but if you don't have the time, there are plenty of places where you can share and discuss photography. If you've written something you'd like me to feature of even if you just want to have a chat, just contact me (just click on the link, it's also in the footer) and I'll leave a link to what you've written on my site.
If you've enjoyed what I've written, I'm glad - this blog doesn't cost much to run, so I don't need affiliate links or donations to keep it alive. Instead, I urge you to share your own opinions too. Starting a blog is a great idea, but if you don't have the time, there are plenty of places where you can share and discuss photography. If you've written something you'd like me to feature of even if you just want to have a chat, just contact me (just click on the link, it's also in the footer) and I'll leave a link to what you've written on my site.