Fujifilm X-T10 Review (In Progress)
This is a review of the Fujifilm X-T10, which I bought to replace my venerable Fujifilm X-E2. As the new 'second best' in Fuji's lineup, the X-T10 shares many features and design specifications with the flagship Fuji X-T1, but cuts enough fringe features that it's able to come in at a significantly reduced cost. Like most other 'second best' cameras such as the Nikon D750 and Canon 6D, the X-T10 becomes an excellent value proposition, offering important enough features over the X-E2 that makes it a compelling upgrade, yet not missing anything important from the X-T1 for most shooters.
The Fuji X-T1 is a mirrorless camera, not a DSLR. Read here to learn about the differences.
This review is of a camera which belongs to an entire system, the Fujiflm X System. For an overview of the Fujifilm X system, see my Fujifilm X System Guide. For other reviews of Fujifilm X System gear, click here to see my complete list of Fujifilm gear reviews, here you'll find reviews of lenses and other gizmos to pair with your excellent X-T1.
The Fujifilm X-T10 is an excellent camera that is small, light and operates magnificently. Like the X-T1, its build quality is sold, despite using high quality plastics for certain parts of its exterior as opposed to magnesium alloy as per the X-T1. This is fine, the top cameras from Nikon and Canon, such as the D750 and 5D Mark III all use predominantly plastic exteriors. Most importantly, however, is that the X-T1 has an excellent autofocus system. What I have always felt was lacking in the X-E2 was its sub-par autofocus performance compared to the X-T1. The X-T10 is also significantly better built than the X-E2 and feels decisively less hollow. From a surface area perspective, I would hazard to say that it is smaller than the X-E2. It weighs in at around 380g, making it slightly heavier than the X-E2 (around 350g) and significantly lighter than the X-T1 (around 450g).
The Fuji X-T1 is a mirrorless camera, not a DSLR. Read here to learn about the differences.
This review is of a camera which belongs to an entire system, the Fujiflm X System. For an overview of the Fujifilm X system, see my Fujifilm X System Guide. For other reviews of Fujifilm X System gear, click here to see my complete list of Fujifilm gear reviews, here you'll find reviews of lenses and other gizmos to pair with your excellent X-T1.
The Fujifilm X-T10 is an excellent camera that is small, light and operates magnificently. Like the X-T1, its build quality is sold, despite using high quality plastics for certain parts of its exterior as opposed to magnesium alloy as per the X-T1. This is fine, the top cameras from Nikon and Canon, such as the D750 and 5D Mark III all use predominantly plastic exteriors. Most importantly, however, is that the X-T1 has an excellent autofocus system. What I have always felt was lacking in the X-E2 was its sub-par autofocus performance compared to the X-T1. The X-T10 is also significantly better built than the X-E2 and feels decisively less hollow. From a surface area perspective, I would hazard to say that it is smaller than the X-E2. It weighs in at around 380g, making it slightly heavier than the X-E2 (around 350g) and significantly lighter than the X-T1 (around 450g).
Unlike older DSLR systems which still have ancient ties to film SLRs from last century, Fujifilm's X system is one of the first systems to be designed from the ground up to be used with digital. The lenses, sensors, processors and firmware all work together to enhance your image quality by correcting optical imperfections in camera (such as distortion) and Fuji's Lens Modulation Optimizer also works to correct diffraction at smaller apertures. What you get out are high quality, corrected JPEG files which are free from the problems which were faced by 35mm film shooters of yesteryear and continue to be faced by DSLR cameras today which have simply just replaced the film with a digital sensor.
From here in, this review is written to be read independently, however, a lot of comparisons will be made to the X-T1. Since this camera is very similar to the X-T1, it makes sense to read this review in conjunction with the review of the X-T1.
From here in, this review is written to be read independently, however, a lot of comparisons will be made to the X-T1. Since this camera is very similar to the X-T1, it makes sense to read this review in conjunction with the review of the X-T1.
Physical Handling
The X-T10 handles very well. Since it's so small, it balances perfectly with smaller lenses such as the 27mm f/2.8 or even the 35mm f/1.4. With larger lenses such as the 56mm f/1.2, it certainly feels a little front heavy, but if you shoot with two hands, it feels perfectly fine. Whilst it may seem counter-intuitive, it actually balances extremely well with the larger 50-140mm f/2.8. This is because the X-T10 is so small that it's like a body cap on the large lens.
With a setup such as this, or even with the 16-55mm f/2.8, I recommend using your left hand to carry the weight of the camera and lens (e.g. left hand around the rubber zoom ring) and then using your right hand to just shoot, it balances very well that way. Physicists and engineers reading this would understand that because the combination is so front heavy, trying to use your right hand to hold it up is very difficult due to the small moment of the force (i.e. torque).
With a setup such as this, or even with the 16-55mm f/2.8, I recommend using your left hand to carry the weight of the camera and lens (e.g. left hand around the rubber zoom ring) and then using your right hand to just shoot, it balances very well that way. Physicists and engineers reading this would understand that because the combination is so front heavy, trying to use your right hand to hold it up is very difficult due to the small moment of the force (i.e. torque).
Ergonomically, the X-T10 is great, but then and again, I'm not someone who's extremely fussy about ergonomics. The Fuji X-T10 performs like how a camera should, the dials are easy to turn and set, the buttons are well placed and clicky and it's very easy to shoot with due to its size (which lends well to inconspicuousness) and its great features and performance.
The camera is great to use and ergonomically excellent. This is great news, nobody cares if a camera has great image quality if it's hard to shoot with - if you're not out using it to shoot pictures, then the fact that it can produce great images is pretty irrelevant. The Fuji X-T10 is great because it handles very well. The dials on top make it very easy to quickly set your shutter speed and the aperture ring on the lenses make it extremely easy to set the aperture, all without having to fiddle around with command dials and looking at the top LCD to see your exposure settings. Compared to the older X-Pro1, the X-T10 is much easier to set and much faster to use because of its more extensive dials and manual controls. With DSLRs and cameras like the Sony A7, you have to look at the top LCD or rear LCD, flip the command dials, scrolling through all the shutter speeds or apertures until you find the one you're after. Here, you just flick the dial to the setting you need in one go.
Perhaps the most important aspect holding many people back from a mirrorless camera is the replacement of the optical viewfinder (OVF) with an electronic viewfinder (EVF). Read more. The X-T10's EVF is probably it's greatest weakness. It's smaller than the X-E2's EVF and nowhere near the size of the X-T1's. That said, the EVF is still more than acceptable. There's little lag, the image it delivers is crisp and it provides all the general benefits of an EVF, such as being able to see in the dark and allowing you to check exposure before hitting the shutter. The tilting LCD on the X-T10 is a great improvement over the X-E2, allowing you to take shots from below or high above, which is much more useful than you would think.
The camera is great to use and ergonomically excellent. This is great news, nobody cares if a camera has great image quality if it's hard to shoot with - if you're not out using it to shoot pictures, then the fact that it can produce great images is pretty irrelevant. The Fuji X-T10 is great because it handles very well. The dials on top make it very easy to quickly set your shutter speed and the aperture ring on the lenses make it extremely easy to set the aperture, all without having to fiddle around with command dials and looking at the top LCD to see your exposure settings. Compared to the older X-Pro1, the X-T10 is much easier to set and much faster to use because of its more extensive dials and manual controls. With DSLRs and cameras like the Sony A7, you have to look at the top LCD or rear LCD, flip the command dials, scrolling through all the shutter speeds or apertures until you find the one you're after. Here, you just flick the dial to the setting you need in one go.
Perhaps the most important aspect holding many people back from a mirrorless camera is the replacement of the optical viewfinder (OVF) with an electronic viewfinder (EVF). Read more. The X-T10's EVF is probably it's greatest weakness. It's smaller than the X-E2's EVF and nowhere near the size of the X-T1's. That said, the EVF is still more than acceptable. There's little lag, the image it delivers is crisp and it provides all the general benefits of an EVF, such as being able to see in the dark and allowing you to check exposure before hitting the shutter. The tilting LCD on the X-T10 is a great improvement over the X-E2, allowing you to take shots from below or high above, which is much more useful than you would think.
X-T1 vs. X-T10 Handling Impressions
This will be the most detailed section of the review, as it is where it differs from the Fuji X-T1 the most. Physically, it is very similar to the X-T1 in terms of the features it has, however, there are some distinct differences.
The front of the camera looks very similar, the X-T10 loses the PC Sync port (no big deal, who uses them anyway) and the function button where your right index finger would lie, this could potentially be a big deal for some people, though it shouldn't be too much of an issue. Overall, I would say very similar. Clearly the X-T10 has a much smaller grip than the X-T1's pronounced grip. This makes it feel much more similar to the X-E2 in some sense. I like the X-T1's grip for better handling, but I also like the X-T10's grip because it's flatter and with a small lens such as the 27mm f/2.8, it is easier to fit in a large pocket.
The back of the camera is very similar. The X-T10 has very much the same buttons as the X-T1, save for the Focus Assist button. I feel this is a bit of a silly decision from Fuji, the Focus Assist button is extremely useful when reviewing pictures as it allows me to quickly zoom in to check the focus rather than having to use the dial to zoom in slowly. I will miss this feature. The X-T10 adds a function button to the bottom right corner, I feel this would have been better placed on the front where the right index finger falls like with the X-T1. The flippy screen folds out just like the X-T1, up 90 degrees, down 45 degrees or so.
The X-T10's EVF is workable. It's very similar to the EVF in the X-E2, which is smaller than the X-T1's very large EVF, but not so small that it becomes difficult to see things. Unlike the X-T1, but like the X-E2, the eyepiece cannot be changed. I usually shoot with the LCD screen except in bright daylight where I have to use the EVF, so for me, it's not a big deal, though it might be for some people. That said, just because it's smaller than the X-T1's doesn't mean it's bad, it's a very workable, practical EVF compared with other cameras on the market - the X-T1's is just the very best.
The X-T10's EVF is workable. It's very similar to the EVF in the X-E2, which is smaller than the X-T1's very large EVF, but not so small that it becomes difficult to see things. Unlike the X-T1, but like the X-E2, the eyepiece cannot be changed. I usually shoot with the LCD screen except in bright daylight where I have to use the EVF, so for me, it's not a big deal, though it might be for some people. That said, just because it's smaller than the X-T1's doesn't mean it's bad, it's a very workable, practical EVF compared with other cameras on the market - the X-T1's is just the very best.
Before getting to the top, I'd just mention that the X-T10 moves the memory card from the right hand side to the battery compartment (which is a bit of an annoyance if you're on a tripod often), but I rarely use tripods, so it's no big deal for me. There's also no vertical grip interface on the X-T10, suggesting it's unlikely there will be a vertical grip made for it, unlike the X-T1. I personally do not use the vertical grips, I shoot with Fuji to save weight, so if I'm adding extra weight on, that seems counter-intuitive. That said, I have no handling problems without the grip, some people like it because it helps them to hold the camera.
Now onto the top, this is where most of the differences lie. The X-T10 has a very cute built in flash that pops up (like a DSLR flash). This is triggered by the little lever on the left side dial. The X-T1 has a dual function left dial, with the lower dial being the drive (shooting mode) dial and the upper dial being the ISO dial. The X-T10 does away with this and only has a drive dial, allowing you to select single shot, continuous high, bracketing...etc.
On the right side, there is a shutter speed dial, which doesn't lock on the Auto setting like the X-T1's does. The X-T1 also allows you to select the metering method (i.e. scene, centre-weighted or spot) with the secondary dial underneath the shutter speed, the X-T10 forces you to go into the menu to adjust this. The exposure compensation dial on the X-T10 is recessed, like on the X-E2, rather than sitting on top of the body like the X-T1's. I find them both equally easy to use. The X-T10 loses the function button for activating the Wi-Fi (which makes it a little more painful to use Wi-Fi), but it allows you to use a threaded mechanical shutter release cable, which the X-T1 doesn't.
Now onto the top, this is where most of the differences lie. The X-T10 has a very cute built in flash that pops up (like a DSLR flash). This is triggered by the little lever on the left side dial. The X-T1 has a dual function left dial, with the lower dial being the drive (shooting mode) dial and the upper dial being the ISO dial. The X-T10 does away with this and only has a drive dial, allowing you to select single shot, continuous high, bracketing...etc.
On the right side, there is a shutter speed dial, which doesn't lock on the Auto setting like the X-T1's does. The X-T1 also allows you to select the metering method (i.e. scene, centre-weighted or spot) with the secondary dial underneath the shutter speed, the X-T10 forces you to go into the menu to adjust this. The exposure compensation dial on the X-T10 is recessed, like on the X-E2, rather than sitting on top of the body like the X-T1's. I find them both equally easy to use. The X-T10 loses the function button for activating the Wi-Fi (which makes it a little more painful to use Wi-Fi), but it allows you to use a threaded mechanical shutter release cable, which the X-T1 doesn't.
Performance
The X-T10 performs very well, just like the X-T1. It's more responsive than the X-E2, especially when turning it on, locking focus and just generally adjusting the camera. It features the newer interface style (similar to the X100T) rather than the older X-T1's style, so it might be a little different when moving from the X-T1. Initially, as an X-T1 shooter, I felt that the new system was a little weird, but I've gotten used to it. When you make changes such as the shutter mode (mechanical or electronic shutter), the menu doesn't come up, but rather, the function button assigned to it just changes it directly (an icon changes to let you know).
For best autofocus performance, turn on High Performance Mode in the Power Management section of the Menu, turn on PRE-AF and also make the size of your autofocus point larger by going to the screen where you select your AF point and rotating the front dial. The autofocus on the X-T10 is excellent. I find that it is better than the autofocus on the X-T1 prior to firmware 4.00. After the latest firmware update, however, I find that the X-T1 tracks slightly better than the X-T10, however, when in AF-S mode, the X-T10 is faster to lock, especially with the 27mm f/2.8. That said, these are more subjective opinions rather than proven facts and the truth is both the focusing systems of the X-T1 and X-T10 perform very well, better than any Fuji has in the past and is definitely a step beyond that of the X-E2. If you've used an X-T1 prior to the latest 4.00 firmware update, the X-T10, as it is, will be faster.
The new firmware update for the X-T1 as well as the X-T10 (out of the box) contains new autofocus features which will help set it apart from the older Fuji cameras. Autofocus performance has been improved, with focus being faster to lock as well as being much more reliable. However, Fuji have finally added tracking to their cameras, something that's been missing for a long time. This is similar to the 3D mode most of us used on DSLRs, e.g. with Nikon.
With the tracking mode, you have Zone tracking or Wide tracking. Use both of these along with AF-C. In Zone tracking, the focus only tracks within the desired zone. This is useful if your subject doesn't move erratically around the frame or if you are able to keep it within the set zone. Zone tracking is much more accurate than Wide tracking and if you're able to keep your subject in the autofocusing zone, you'll get a much higher percentage of keepers due to more of your shots being in focus. Wide tracking allows your subject to move all over the frame, which might be useful if your subject moves erratically over the frame. You won't get as high of a keeper rate as with Zone tracking, but it'll still be useful for situations where you're not able to contain your subject in the required zone.
Overall, autofocus performance is very good - as good as the X-T1, but still not at the level you'd be used to if you've been shooting DSLRs. In good light, the X-T10 performs very similarly to something like a D610 or 6D, but in lower light, it can't seem to lock focus sometimes. I've devised a solution to this and it's to use a small modelling light or video light and just use that as an AF assist beam, as the one on camera doesn't seem to work so well.
For best autofocus performance, turn on High Performance Mode in the Power Management section of the Menu, turn on PRE-AF and also make the size of your autofocus point larger by going to the screen where you select your AF point and rotating the front dial. The autofocus on the X-T10 is excellent. I find that it is better than the autofocus on the X-T1 prior to firmware 4.00. After the latest firmware update, however, I find that the X-T1 tracks slightly better than the X-T10, however, when in AF-S mode, the X-T10 is faster to lock, especially with the 27mm f/2.8. That said, these are more subjective opinions rather than proven facts and the truth is both the focusing systems of the X-T1 and X-T10 perform very well, better than any Fuji has in the past and is definitely a step beyond that of the X-E2. If you've used an X-T1 prior to the latest 4.00 firmware update, the X-T10, as it is, will be faster.
The new firmware update for the X-T1 as well as the X-T10 (out of the box) contains new autofocus features which will help set it apart from the older Fuji cameras. Autofocus performance has been improved, with focus being faster to lock as well as being much more reliable. However, Fuji have finally added tracking to their cameras, something that's been missing for a long time. This is similar to the 3D mode most of us used on DSLRs, e.g. with Nikon.
With the tracking mode, you have Zone tracking or Wide tracking. Use both of these along with AF-C. In Zone tracking, the focus only tracks within the desired zone. This is useful if your subject doesn't move erratically around the frame or if you are able to keep it within the set zone. Zone tracking is much more accurate than Wide tracking and if you're able to keep your subject in the autofocusing zone, you'll get a much higher percentage of keepers due to more of your shots being in focus. Wide tracking allows your subject to move all over the frame, which might be useful if your subject moves erratically over the frame. You won't get as high of a keeper rate as with Zone tracking, but it'll still be useful for situations where you're not able to contain your subject in the required zone.
Overall, autofocus performance is very good - as good as the X-T1, but still not at the level you'd be used to if you've been shooting DSLRs. In good light, the X-T10 performs very similarly to something like a D610 or 6D, but in lower light, it can't seem to lock focus sometimes. I've devised a solution to this and it's to use a small modelling light or video light and just use that as an AF assist beam, as the one on camera doesn't seem to work so well.
Image Quality
Image quality is determined by three factors, technique, lenses and cameras (perhaps in descending order of importance). To have any chance of getting sharp images, you need to be well-stabilised, shooting at a sufficiently high shutter speed and also be shooting a subject with decent contrast and lighting. Then you need to be shooting with a quality lens. Thankfully, most of Fuji's lenses are amazing and all of them are good. So you have a wide selection of lenses to choose from which will give you great results.
The X-T10 itself uses a 16MP X-Trans II sensor, which is different from a more traditional Bayer sensor arrangement. Without getting too overly technical, a Bayer sensor uses an array of 2x2 grids, with two green elements, one red and one blue. This is to mimic the fact that the human eye is more sensitive to green. Thus, each of these 2x2 grids will measure the intensity of each of the RGB wavelengths. The X-T10 (and other Fuji X cameras apart from the X-A1) uses Fuji's X-Trans sensor, which is a 6x6 grid, containing 20 green elements, 8 red elements and 8 blue elements. Because this arrangement is more randomised, it is said to reduce the prevalence of moire patterns (a creation of a 3rd pattern from two superimposed patterns), thus not requiring an anti-aliasing (blurring) filter, allowing it to extract more detail from the same resolution sensor.
In other words, the Fuji XT-10's 16MP X-Trans II sensor is expected to deliver more detail than another 16MP sensor, for example, the one found in the Nikon D7000 because of its superior (newer) technology. This is great in theory, but it also works in practice, with the X-T1 being able to extract copious amounts of detail from its files.
Fuji's system is also very well designed, with the camera being able to correct lens imperfections such as distortion and even diffraction at smaller apertures all in camera. This shows how tightly integrated the Fuji X system is and how a digital system should be - we are no longer tied to 35mm film the way that many DSLR systems are.
The X-T10 itself uses a 16MP X-Trans II sensor, which is different from a more traditional Bayer sensor arrangement. Without getting too overly technical, a Bayer sensor uses an array of 2x2 grids, with two green elements, one red and one blue. This is to mimic the fact that the human eye is more sensitive to green. Thus, each of these 2x2 grids will measure the intensity of each of the RGB wavelengths. The X-T10 (and other Fuji X cameras apart from the X-A1) uses Fuji's X-Trans sensor, which is a 6x6 grid, containing 20 green elements, 8 red elements and 8 blue elements. Because this arrangement is more randomised, it is said to reduce the prevalence of moire patterns (a creation of a 3rd pattern from two superimposed patterns), thus not requiring an anti-aliasing (blurring) filter, allowing it to extract more detail from the same resolution sensor.
In other words, the Fuji XT-10's 16MP X-Trans II sensor is expected to deliver more detail than another 16MP sensor, for example, the one found in the Nikon D7000 because of its superior (newer) technology. This is great in theory, but it also works in practice, with the X-T1 being able to extract copious amounts of detail from its files.
Fuji's system is also very well designed, with the camera being able to correct lens imperfections such as distortion and even diffraction at smaller apertures all in camera. This shows how tightly integrated the Fuji X system is and how a digital system should be - we are no longer tied to 35mm film the way that many DSLR systems are.
High ISO Test and Samples
Since the X-T10 is basically the same as an X-T1, especially the sensor, I would suggest reading the X-T1 review and looking at the samples and the high ISO pictures there. They're very good.
Recommended Lenses
Check out Fujifilm X System Guide and Fujifilm Reviews.
Since the X-T10 is smaller than an X-T1, I would recommend the smaller lenses for the X-T10. Whilst there's no problem with using the largest lenses such as the Fujinon 50-140mm f/2.8 on the X-T10, it just doesn't balance as well as the X-T1. That said, if you don't mind the imbalance and can hold the majority of the weight with your left hand, then the X-T10 will pair very well with the larger lenses. Given that the X-T10 is a good few hundred dollars less than the X-T1, this can probably be put towards getting better lenses.
Since the X-T10 is smaller than an X-T1, I would recommend the smaller lenses for the X-T10. Whilst there's no problem with using the largest lenses such as the Fujinon 50-140mm f/2.8 on the X-T10, it just doesn't balance as well as the X-T1. That said, if you don't mind the imbalance and can hold the majority of the weight with your left hand, then the X-T10 will pair very well with the larger lenses. Given that the X-T10 is a good few hundred dollars less than the X-T1, this can probably be put towards getting better lenses.
What I Personally Use
I predominantly use my X-T10 with the 27mm f/2.8. At events, I've found that using my X-T10 with the 27mm f/2.8 when out and about. If I need a little more speed, then the 35mm f/1.4 or the 23mm f/1.4 are my friends. Both are great lenses. The 56mm f/1.2 also finds itself on my X-T10 quite often.
Rarely do I shoot events these days, but when I do, the X-T10 with the 27mm f/2.8 and the X-T1 with the 50-140mm f/2.8 make a great combo that covers from a wider-normal perspective to telephoto. This is better for standing back and shooting. When you're among the crowd, however, I find that a better combination is perhaps the 10-24mm f/4 OIS and 35mm f/1.4 (or even 56mm f/1.2).
Rarely do I shoot events these days, but when I do, the X-T10 with the 27mm f/2.8 and the X-T1 with the 50-140mm f/2.8 make a great combo that covers from a wider-normal perspective to telephoto. This is better for standing back and shooting. When you're among the crowd, however, I find that a better combination is perhaps the 10-24mm f/4 OIS and 35mm f/1.4 (or even 56mm f/1.2).