Fujifilm X100 Review (X100S, X100T)
The Fujifilm X100 (and its successors the X100S and X100T) is the world's best camera for people and most things. Unlike bigger, fatter DSLRs, a small camera such as the X100 allows you to get into tighter spaces, go further and get to places you would never be able to with a bigger camera. The Fuji X100's metering and built-in flash are among the best, with me having to rarely use the exposure compensation and the flash almost always getting the exposure right without overpowering the ambient light, which is what most DSLRs do.
Weighing in at a measly 440g with the built-in fixed 23mm (35mm eq.) f/2.0 Fujinon lens, the X100 is much lighter than even the smallest DSLRs, such as the D3100. The built-in lens is fixed and non-interchangeable, however, thankfully, it is an excellent lens, designed to suit the X100's 12MP APS-C sensor. This combination allows the X100 to be as sharp as all crop-frame DSLRs. Unfortunately, a 35mm full-frame equivalent focal length is difficult to achieve on crop-frame DSLRs, with the only way being expensive 24mm full-frame lenses.
The Hybrid OVF/EVF
One of the X100's major selling points is it's hybrid optical viewfinder and electronic viewfinder. Those of us who have shot with DSLRs will know the benefit of an optical viewfinder (OVF). The OVF allows us to see the real world without delay and with our own eyes. In bright light, the OVF gives better image quality than any electronic viewfinder and allows us to see motion instantaneously.
The electronic viewfinder (EVF) can be activated by flicking the red switch on the front of the camera, next to the flash. The EVF allows us to see what the camera's sensor actually sees, so when we adjust factors such as exposure compensation, we can see it actually change in real time. However, unlike the OVF, what we are seeing is an LCD screen, so we do not get the benefit of seeing the real world without delay. In low light, the EVF shines, as it allows us to see what we're actually doing. For macro and shots up close, the EVF shines as it eliminates the parallax error inherent in the OVF.
The OVF and EVF work inherently well together. If you use the OVF and take a shot, the viewfinder switches momentarily to the EVF so you can view your shot. You can adjust all the menus and settings through the EVF without having to ever use the LCD screen on the back.
The EVF also allows you to review your pictures in bright sunlight where it might be hard to view the LCD screen and check for accurate exposure, though this is often unnecessary as the X100's excellent metering system almost always gets the exposure pinpoint accurate on the first go.
The electronic viewfinder (EVF) can be activated by flicking the red switch on the front of the camera, next to the flash. The EVF allows us to see what the camera's sensor actually sees, so when we adjust factors such as exposure compensation, we can see it actually change in real time. However, unlike the OVF, what we are seeing is an LCD screen, so we do not get the benefit of seeing the real world without delay. In low light, the EVF shines, as it allows us to see what we're actually doing. For macro and shots up close, the EVF shines as it eliminates the parallax error inherent in the OVF.
The OVF and EVF work inherently well together. If you use the OVF and take a shot, the viewfinder switches momentarily to the EVF so you can view your shot. You can adjust all the menus and settings through the EVF without having to ever use the LCD screen on the back.
The EVF also allows you to review your pictures in bright sunlight where it might be hard to view the LCD screen and check for accurate exposure, though this is often unnecessary as the X100's excellent metering system almost always gets the exposure pinpoint accurate on the first go.
Landscapes and Things
The X100 is excellent for landscape pictures as it offers a useful focal length and lets us move further, faster and shoot more things. For my landscape shots, I almost always shoot with the 'Velvia' (Vivid) picture control setting which enhances the colour and contrast in the images the camera makes. Fuji's JPEG engine is great and since the X100 always gets my shots right, I shoot in JPEG with the X100.
The X100's sharpness, contrast and colour rendition are all excellent. Dynamic range and tonal range all rival the best APS-C crop-frame DSLR cameras. If you are going to be making mural sized prints for exhibitions, you might feel that 12MP is a little limiting, however, for web use, there is practically no difference between 12MP and a higher resolution sensor. Remember that the professional Nikon D4s also only has 16MP.
We can see that for most purposes, including web and print, the 12MP sensor is more than enough and there is practically no image quality loss when comparing the X100 to a similarly priced DSLR. My suggestion is that if you're a landscape and photographer of things, in general, it will be worth investing in a Fuji X100 (or its newer variants) as it will allow you to hike further, move more quickly and take more photos.
People
For people shots, the X100 absolutely shines. It really is designed to be a social camera and it shows, with skin tones excellent and the flash accurately filling in shadows. I generally take the X100 to social events rather than my DSLR setup these days, unless I know I'll be needing the reach which the 35mm equivalent lens on the X100 can't provide. The focal length of 23mm (equivalent to 35mm on full-frame) is an excellent choice for social events as it allows me to both get the group shots as well as get in close for a portrait.
Where the X100 is Bad
The X100 is bad for action. Lack of true tracking autofocus, as well as slow autofocus speed just means that the Fuji X100 is terrible for any sort of action shots. Any cheap DSLR which has tracking autofocus, such as the Nikon D5200, will be better for sports and action than a Fuji X100. Even though the Fuji X100 handles well, it can often be sluggish and slow, especially writing to cards after a shot and accessing menus.
I feel that even though the X100's menus aren't terrible, they are often badly laid out with most DSLRs providing a more intuitive and better menu experience. The exposure controls on the X100 are self-explanatory. There is a dial for shutter speed and a dial for the aperture. Setting the shutter speed to 'A' (Automatic) and the aperture to a specific number puts us into aperture priority. Similarly, we can set the aperture to 'A' and the shutter speed manually, putting us into shutter priority. Leaving both in 'A' will give us program mode.
Another complaint I personally have is with the absolutely trash charger. The charger requires a small piece of plastic adaptor in order to charge the Fuji X100's battery as it doesn't fit in naturally. The small piece of plastic is easily lost (I've lost mine), which means that the battery won't charge unless it is physically jammed in, in order to stay. Whilst this isn't necessarily a problem, it is an inconvenience and for the price of the X100, which is more expensive than basically any crop-frame DSLR, the charger should really be better.
Whilst the camera itself is built well, I can't help but feel that Fuji really cut corners with the accessories. The battery is small and only takes around 350 shots before it dies. This is acceptable, due to size constraints, but the battery simply feels cheaply built, as if it is simply wrapped in tape rather than properly sealed as most DSLR batteries are. Even more stupidly, the X100 battery isn't keyed, meaning that it can be jammed into the camera in any orientation, whilst only one of which would actually work. You need to look at the terminals and line them up with the terminals in the camera to work out which orientation the battery goes in.
The final complaint is that there's no easy way to attach a filter to the X100 without having to spend extra on Fuji's hood and adaptor kit. There are 3rd party knock-offs on Amazon, but for a premium product, it should at least come with the option to attach a filter and the hood should not have to be purchased separately. All DSLR lenses these days come with standard filter threads and hoods.
Whilst most of these complaints could be forgiven, the X100 isn't a cheap camera. It is priced, built and marketed as a premium product and whilst the camera itself is of high quality, the same can't be said about the accessories.
I feel that even though the X100's menus aren't terrible, they are often badly laid out with most DSLRs providing a more intuitive and better menu experience. The exposure controls on the X100 are self-explanatory. There is a dial for shutter speed and a dial for the aperture. Setting the shutter speed to 'A' (Automatic) and the aperture to a specific number puts us into aperture priority. Similarly, we can set the aperture to 'A' and the shutter speed manually, putting us into shutter priority. Leaving both in 'A' will give us program mode.
Another complaint I personally have is with the absolutely trash charger. The charger requires a small piece of plastic adaptor in order to charge the Fuji X100's battery as it doesn't fit in naturally. The small piece of plastic is easily lost (I've lost mine), which means that the battery won't charge unless it is physically jammed in, in order to stay. Whilst this isn't necessarily a problem, it is an inconvenience and for the price of the X100, which is more expensive than basically any crop-frame DSLR, the charger should really be better.
Whilst the camera itself is built well, I can't help but feel that Fuji really cut corners with the accessories. The battery is small and only takes around 350 shots before it dies. This is acceptable, due to size constraints, but the battery simply feels cheaply built, as if it is simply wrapped in tape rather than properly sealed as most DSLR batteries are. Even more stupidly, the X100 battery isn't keyed, meaning that it can be jammed into the camera in any orientation, whilst only one of which would actually work. You need to look at the terminals and line them up with the terminals in the camera to work out which orientation the battery goes in.
The final complaint is that there's no easy way to attach a filter to the X100 without having to spend extra on Fuji's hood and adaptor kit. There are 3rd party knock-offs on Amazon, but for a premium product, it should at least come with the option to attach a filter and the hood should not have to be purchased separately. All DSLR lenses these days come with standard filter threads and hoods.
Whilst most of these complaints could be forgiven, the X100 isn't a cheap camera. It is priced, built and marketed as a premium product and whilst the camera itself is of high quality, the same can't be said about the accessories.
Pricing and Availability
The latest edition of the Fuji X100 is generally always around $1,000. With the subsequent releases of the X100S and X100T, the previous models have gone down in price, available for as little as $500 on the used market for the original X100. The X100T is currently over $1,000 new, but over time, it will settle to around $1,000.
Over the original X100, the X100T adds several new benefits, including an electronic shutter, a bigger 3" LCD, as well as facial recognition and Wi-Fi. Based on these features alone, I would suggest going for the X100T if you have the money. If you don't, the best bet is the original X100, the X100S does not add a substantial enough improvement over the X100 to warrant spending more on it. I might sell my X100 in order to upgrade to the X100T when prices on it fall a little.
Over the original X100, the X100T adds several new benefits, including an electronic shutter, a bigger 3" LCD, as well as facial recognition and Wi-Fi. Based on these features alone, I would suggest going for the X100T if you have the money. If you don't, the best bet is the original X100, the X100S does not add a substantial enough improvement over the X100 to warrant spending more on it. I might sell my X100 in order to upgrade to the X100T when prices on it fall a little.
Is the X100 Worth It?
Maybe. For most people, the X100 isn't worth it because of the cost. For example, instead of grabbing a new, current X100T for above $1,000, another option would be to go with a Nikon D7100 or the newly released D5500 with a 35mm f/1.8G DX lens. Both of these options will cost less than the X100T does brand new and DSLRs will simply be more responsive, tighter and faster, better for action and sports and allow interchangeable lenses. For most people, I would say the X100 (and its successors) do not make much relative sense.
However, for experienced photographers looking to add to their kit, the X100 (and successors) is a great way to enhance what you might already have. For example, if you already own a fully fledged DSLR kit, instead of adding an extra lens or an extra body, it might be worth adding an X100 for weekend and getaway shooting, especially when you want to travel light.
Fuji describes the X100 as a professional's camera and whilst I don't fully agree, I can see their point. It doesn't make much sense to own the Fuji X100 as your only camera unless what you want to do is fully covered by the 35mm f/2.0 equivalent lens. For those of you who already own a kit which you take with you everywhere else, the Fuji X100 is a nice addition that will allow you to take shots you've never been able to with your multi-thousand dollar kits.
However, for experienced photographers looking to add to their kit, the X100 (and successors) is a great way to enhance what you might already have. For example, if you already own a fully fledged DSLR kit, instead of adding an extra lens or an extra body, it might be worth adding an X100 for weekend and getaway shooting, especially when you want to travel light.
Fuji describes the X100 as a professional's camera and whilst I don't fully agree, I can see their point. It doesn't make much sense to own the Fuji X100 as your only camera unless what you want to do is fully covered by the 35mm f/2.0 equivalent lens. For those of you who already own a kit which you take with you everywhere else, the Fuji X100 is a nice addition that will allow you to take shots you've never been able to with your multi-thousand dollar kits.
How I use my X100
I often use my X100 alongside my DSLR kit in a traditional wide prime, telephoto prime setup. Often, I've found that the 35mm equivalent focal length on the X100 and a telephoto prime such as the 105mm f/2.8 VR on my Nikon D600 works well together as a pretty lightweight combination that can tackle most photographic assignments.
When I only need one camera, I will take the Fuji X100 to social events and dates, where it's often not very nice to take a hulking big camera. When I need to take action shots and demand perfect technical image quality, my Nikon D600 with the Sigma 35mm f/1.4 Art delivers better image quality, tracking autofocus, as well as better low light performance due to the better high ISO performance of the D600's full-frame sensor and the lens' wider aperture.
I always use my X100 and any camera in Auto ISO. Generally, I use my X100 in program mode (auto aperture, auto shutter speed) when I'm using it as a general walking around camera. When I require depth of field for landscapes, I flick to f/8 or f/11, both of which are appropriate in daylight and let the camera determine the shutter speed. When I'm shooting people, I find that 1/60s might be too slow for movement, so I use 1/125s and let the camera decide the aperture.
I rarely shoot in full manual mode, however, for portraits, generally f/2.8 and 1/60s works quite well, but setting the camera to f/2.8, it will automatically select 1/60s for me, so there's no point in flicking the switch. The camera is also smart enough to increase the shutter speed when there is too much light, so there isn't much use for manual mode other than in the studio, but nobody buys an X100 to use in studio.
The best thing about the X100 is that it almost always gets exposure correct. I rarely have to use exposure compensation like I do with DSLRs, but that might partially be because I tend to use DSLRs to shoot more complex scenes compared to the X100. The X100 also has nice automatic white balance. With DSLRs, I often have to set the white balance to 'Sunny' or 'Shade' when outdoors in order to get the best colour. The X100 achieves that straight up.
I usually use STANDARD (Provia) mode for people shots and I use VIVD (Velvia) mode for landscapes and things. I prefer the colours that VIVID mode gives, however, its too harsh for skin tones and most people look better with STANDARD mode. In strange lighting, STANDARD mode works better. In sunlight, I can use VIVID mode for people as well.
When using the viewfinder, I use the OVF in day time and the EVF at night time. When I'm doing macro, I will use the LCD screen, but if I had to, I would use the EVF, as the OVF will suffer from the parallax effect. When reviewing images in bright sunlight, the LCD isn't bright enough, so I find using the EVF to review images better and allows me to gauge exposure better.
The onboard flash works extremely well, so I haven't found the need to use an external flash. I've tested it with a Nikon SB700 in manual mode and the flash did fire, however, I needed to set it to use external flash in the menu, which is a pain and hence I would probably not use an external flash. I don't know if using the Fuji flash would automatically change the setting rather than require manually changing it.
The X100's battery is bad. I generally get around 350 shots from it, less if I'm using the flash, which I usually am. I recommend carrying two batteries or more for a full day of shooting as a main camera. When I use it in a two camera setup, I generally get a full days use out of one battery. Since the X100 is slower than a DSLR, it encourages you to take less pictures, but more thoughtful ones.
Unlike on a DSLR, I do not use continuous shutter on the X100, so when I use my D600, I generally take a few shots. I only take one with the X100 as the flash does not fire under continuous shutter. I shoot in the highest setting JPGs, I get around 6,500 images on each 32GB card. I would never shoot that much in one go, hence, an 8GB card would be better, but I don't have any smaller cards. As always, if you're intending to fill the 32GB cards, I recommend incremental backups as you go.
When I only need one camera, I will take the Fuji X100 to social events and dates, where it's often not very nice to take a hulking big camera. When I need to take action shots and demand perfect technical image quality, my Nikon D600 with the Sigma 35mm f/1.4 Art delivers better image quality, tracking autofocus, as well as better low light performance due to the better high ISO performance of the D600's full-frame sensor and the lens' wider aperture.
I always use my X100 and any camera in Auto ISO. Generally, I use my X100 in program mode (auto aperture, auto shutter speed) when I'm using it as a general walking around camera. When I require depth of field for landscapes, I flick to f/8 or f/11, both of which are appropriate in daylight and let the camera determine the shutter speed. When I'm shooting people, I find that 1/60s might be too slow for movement, so I use 1/125s and let the camera decide the aperture.
I rarely shoot in full manual mode, however, for portraits, generally f/2.8 and 1/60s works quite well, but setting the camera to f/2.8, it will automatically select 1/60s for me, so there's no point in flicking the switch. The camera is also smart enough to increase the shutter speed when there is too much light, so there isn't much use for manual mode other than in the studio, but nobody buys an X100 to use in studio.
The best thing about the X100 is that it almost always gets exposure correct. I rarely have to use exposure compensation like I do with DSLRs, but that might partially be because I tend to use DSLRs to shoot more complex scenes compared to the X100. The X100 also has nice automatic white balance. With DSLRs, I often have to set the white balance to 'Sunny' or 'Shade' when outdoors in order to get the best colour. The X100 achieves that straight up.
I usually use STANDARD (Provia) mode for people shots and I use VIVD (Velvia) mode for landscapes and things. I prefer the colours that VIVID mode gives, however, its too harsh for skin tones and most people look better with STANDARD mode. In strange lighting, STANDARD mode works better. In sunlight, I can use VIVID mode for people as well.
When using the viewfinder, I use the OVF in day time and the EVF at night time. When I'm doing macro, I will use the LCD screen, but if I had to, I would use the EVF, as the OVF will suffer from the parallax effect. When reviewing images in bright sunlight, the LCD isn't bright enough, so I find using the EVF to review images better and allows me to gauge exposure better.
The onboard flash works extremely well, so I haven't found the need to use an external flash. I've tested it with a Nikon SB700 in manual mode and the flash did fire, however, I needed to set it to use external flash in the menu, which is a pain and hence I would probably not use an external flash. I don't know if using the Fuji flash would automatically change the setting rather than require manually changing it.
The X100's battery is bad. I generally get around 350 shots from it, less if I'm using the flash, which I usually am. I recommend carrying two batteries or more for a full day of shooting as a main camera. When I use it in a two camera setup, I generally get a full days use out of one battery. Since the X100 is slower than a DSLR, it encourages you to take less pictures, but more thoughtful ones.
Unlike on a DSLR, I do not use continuous shutter on the X100, so when I use my D600, I generally take a few shots. I only take one with the X100 as the flash does not fire under continuous shutter. I shoot in the highest setting JPGs, I get around 6,500 images on each 32GB card. I would never shoot that much in one go, hence, an 8GB card would be better, but I don't have any smaller cards. As always, if you're intending to fill the 32GB cards, I recommend incremental backups as you go.
Plug
Thank you for taking the time to read my blog. Whilst I aim to verify all of the information I've presented and I always run my articles through a spelling and grammar check before posting them, sometimes there are mistakes. If you've found a mistake, I'd appreciate it wholeheartedly if you could contact me (just click on the link, it's also in the footer). Due to the nature of photography and personal preferences - much of what I say is my own opinion - other reviewers, and perhaps even yourself, may disagree.
If you've enjoyed what I've written, I'm glad - this blog doesn't cost much to run, so I don't need affiliate links or donations to keep it alive. Instead, I urge you to share your own opinions too. Starting a blog is a great idea, but if you don't have the time, there are plenty of places where you can share and discuss photography. If you've written something you'd like me to feature of even if you just want to have a chat, just contact me (just click on the link, it's also in the footer) and I'll leave a link to what you've written on my site.
If you've enjoyed what I've written, I'm glad - this blog doesn't cost much to run, so I don't need affiliate links or donations to keep it alive. Instead, I urge you to share your own opinions too. Starting a blog is a great idea, but if you don't have the time, there are plenty of places where you can share and discuss photography. If you've written something you'd like me to feature of even if you just want to have a chat, just contact me (just click on the link, it's also in the footer) and I'll leave a link to what you've written on my site.